Learn about artist Susan Hicks's process and materials for metal clay design of original jewelry and home decor accents for sale on-site at Melasdesign Handmade Collection. See why a customer was inspired to say "your work is like nobody else's."

Metal Clay for Jewelry Making

The jewelry I design is mainly composed of two media: metal clay and laser cut materials. I have thoroughly enjoyed taking advantage of the relatively new media. The following blog deals with my process in creating metal clay jewelry.

If you've never heard of metal clay, don't worry! It's a specialized niche. Materials are sold almost exclusively online, and most designers use a small kiln to fire the clay. Classes for learning metal clay design aren't extremely common, and even books on the medium are not plentiful. In other words, it's not the most accessible medium. Some resources are listed at the end of this blog.

Design Techniques

The most basic metal clay technique involves stamping textures into the metal clay and then cutting shapes to assemble into a piece of jewelry. I am hardly ever satisfied using a purchased texture stamp and prefer making my own patterns. I have carved patterns and forms into linocut blocks. I have also used 3D printed textures of my own design.

Metal clay can be modeled in its wet form in an additive process, or carved once dry in a subtractive process. There are a plethora of tools that can be used, from polymer clay modeling supplies to dental tools. You can get creative with household items too!

Molding, Modeling, and Cutting

Sometimes I model polymer clay to make a basic mold for metal clay. This can be used as is, or made into a relief mold by using a molding agent. In this way the metal clay comes out the same as the polymer clay model and not reversed. This can be helpful in making mirrored matched shapes, such as one might use for earrings. The resulting shapes may require further refinement to clean up features, or to create a new, different design. The bronze clay pendant below was initially formed by pressing the clay into my polymer clay form. Once dried to greenware, I used a meticulous carving process to add overhanging fold details. The cubic zirconia was set in greenware and fired in place.

Another way to add texture to a piece is in imprinting found objects. Leaf jewelry created by pressing leaves into metal clay, or into molding agent is a customer favorite in local shops. It's a fun way to make earrings, pendants, or even tube beads.

My final creative way to shape metal clay involves designing 3D printed "cookie cutters" to cut the metal clay into exactly the shape I've dreamed up. 

My Batty Spinner Pendant (it spins!) used this technique, as well as a 3D printed moon texture for the full moon shape behind the bat spinner. 

Fine Silver Metal Clay Greenware

Stone Setting, Firing, and Surface Treatments

Metal clay can be stone set, either by a fire in place method where Cubic Zirconia or fire in place cultured opals are set into the greenware. The clay then shrinks around the stone in the sintering process. Traditional bezel setting techniques are also an option. 

After the greenware is refined, the next step is firing, in a kiln or by torch. During the firing process (generally between 1100-1800 degrees) the emulsifier burns away, resulting in a pure metal piece through a process called sintering. The finished piece will always be a bit smaller than the greenware that was put in the kiln. The pure metal shrinks into where the emulsifier had been. After firing, the cooled piece goes through a tumbling and polishing process. Lastly, a patina may be added by a dip in liver of sulphur or other patina compounds. More color may also be added to copper and fine silver clay by enameling or other surface treatments. 

Enameled Fine Silver Pendant

The versatility of metal clay opens a world of possibility for artists. In my case, dealing with the neuro-muscular disease Myasthenia Gravis, it has been a great medium to work in. It requires much less repetition and physical effort than traditional metalwork.

Interested in learning or doing? Here are some resources:
CoolTools is my go-to site for metal clay and metal clay tools. I was lucky enough to have initial metal clay instruction, in person through an art school. I have Holly Gage to thank for a huge part in my development as a metal clay artist through her online classes. She is also part of the Metal Clay and Mixed Media Group on Facebook, which is great for sharing work and learning opportunities alike. Of course there are other groups too! Just search for Metal Clay groups.